Hello Again

[Beardy Rich]

You could always string it, as per the following lengthy explanation.
Two poles with two grooves in about a foot wider than the car (grooves the same distance apart on each pole). Tie two peices of string around one pole, then put a mark on each piece of string about two foot longer than the car (make sure the distance from the pole to the mark is the same on each bit of string), and the tie a washer to each bit of string a few inches past the mark.
Put the poles on a couple of axle stands each, one in front of the car one behind, so they are the same hight as the centre of the wheels. Put the string in the grooves of the pole they are tied around and then over to the groves in the other pole so the marks on the string are level with the pole and the weights are keeping the string tight. This gives you a rectangle around the car.
Using a rule measure from the string to the center of the wheels and move the poles until you have the same distance from the from the string to the front and rear wheels, remembering to keep the marks on the string aligned with the pole.
You now have two parallel pieces of string aligned with the center if the axles, don't worry if it's not square, as long as the string is in the grooves and the marks are aligned they will be parallel. Now using a rule measure the distance from the edge of the rim to the string at the front and rear of each wheel, and the diameter of the wheel at the point you are measuring. Using trig and these dimensions you can work out the toe in/out of the axle.
This is generally as accurate as most manual gauges and isn't quite as fiddly as it sounds (honest).

[Nugget]

I was going to do just that but couldn't find out whether or not the rear track of the Davrian is the same as the front, so I ended up dropping plumb lines off the front rims and chalk marking the floor and got the front end bob on, checked it 3 times, it certainly drove better as I had 1/8" toe out before I tracked it so effectively 1/4" out.

If I can find out what the front and rear tracks are I'll string it as per the guide.

Cheers

[Beardy Rich]

It doesn't matter if the track is different at the front and rear. As long as you have the same distance from the center of each rear wheel to the strings and the center of each front wheel to the strings you will have two lines parallel to each other and the centre of the axles, the front and rear distances don't have to be the same.
I'm glad you've got it sorted and it's driving better, you're putting me to shame with how long it taking me to sort mine.

[Hal Mercier]

It's good to read about a Davrian that has actually made it back into use! I'm slightly embarrassed by my sloth.

The car looks very good, even the front panel looks ok, which for an early car seems to be a rarity, although a number of you guys have done good modifications and improved things a lot.

My Mk 4 had the hideous raised lip designed to lift the air over the wipers, but which caused problems with sight-lines so had to be removed. I think the Mk 5 front didn't have the lip, certainly on your Mk 6 front it's thankfully absent.

I was intending to fit a Mk 6 front on mine, but I've reconsidered and will be doing yet another patch-up job, then making a mould from the perfected panel, and finally producing a decent, flaw free (!!!!) lightweight front.

What's the build number on your car? I have most of the early build numbers and first owners names here, it'd be good to match it up.

Last thing, if you do decide you want to fit a genuine replica Zagato double-bubble roof, I can confidently say "It's definitely in the pipeline". The Dav was dragged out of its slumber recently and the final blending of the bubble roof started in earnest. It's progressing in fits and starts, but as I found my NEW (in 2001) braking system is now dead I've been obliged to dismantle the MCs on that....another diversion.

One thing I've gleaned from this is DON'T use NOS master cylinders, or at least make certain you replace the seals with guaranteed new ones, as the NOS seals will be cheese by now. Mine lasted a few races in 2001 and 2002, and about 100 road miles shortly thereafter and are now FUBAR.

Very irritating.....though I was delighted to find that the lightweight alloy Girling calipers supplied by Tim D in 2001 are still perfectly ok.

Roof blending has commenced...I also need to finalise the shoulder scoops by taking moulds as these are originals and far too heavy.

They will be fitted using flush-fitting anodised ally quarter turn fixings. The left one feeds to the ducted in oil cooler, the right one to an airbox for the Webers. The round hole in the tail panel is the other end of the oil cooler duct, and as it's a low pressure zone, should provide some suction.







The DB roof does make a worthwhile difference in headroom by the way., so if you are a normal sized human being and fancy a bit of competition, you can save rubbing a hole in your crash hat with that little extra space.

I had tried everything including cutting out my seat shell bottom but was still an interference fit, and I'm only 5'9 1/2 ish.

Maybe I have short legs and a long body?